" Old cabinets are covered with everything from hand oils to oily smoke residue to scared gravy," states Dee. "You've got to get all that off or the paint won't stick." Back out the hinge screws from the cabinet frame and get rid of the doors. Working systematically from delegated right, leading to bottom, label every one with a numbered piece of tape.
Set aside the shelf-hanging hardware. At your worktable, eliminate the pulls and hinges and save what's being reused. On the doors, move the number from the tape to the exposed wood under one hinge. Cover it with fresh tape. Open the windows for ventilation and put on safety equipment. Scrub down all of the face frames, doors, drawer fronts, and shelving with an abrasive pad dipped in liquid deglosser. china cabinet painted with chalk paint.
Before the deglosser vaporizes, rapidly clean away the residue with another tidy, deglosser-dampened rag. If you're moving the hardware, fill the old screw holes with a two-part polyester wood or autobody filler. It sets in about 5 minutes, so blend only small batches. (Dee adds a pea-size bit of hardener to a golf-ball-size glob of filler.) The filler diminishes a bit, so overfill the holes slightly.
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If it solidifies totally, sand it smooth. Sand all surfaces with the grain utilizing 100-grit paper - can you paint any kitchen cabinets. To ensure no little bits of dust mar the finish, vacuum the cabinets inside and out, then rub them down with a tack cloth to catch any debris that the vacuum misses. Dee says, "Hand sanding is the best technique on oak since you can push the paper into the open grain, which a power sander or sanding block will miss out on." When using a tack fabric, unfold each brand-new fabric fully, down to one layer, then crumple it to get the greatest dust collection surface area.
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But they just sink into open-grained woods such as oak, ash, mahogany, or hickory. does paint need to be stored in a flammable cabinet. Brushing putty, the pudding-thick, oil-based coating Dee used on these oak cabinets, fills the grain as it primes the wood. A couple of caveats: It should be used with a good-quality nylon-polyester brush, which you'll have to toss away after each coat.
Beginning at the top of the cabinet, brush on the primer or brushing putty throughout the grain, then "tip off" pass the brush lightly over the damp finish in the instructions of the grain. Always tip off in a single stroke from one end to the other. Give it a day to dry (fireproof paint cabinets).
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Sand any profiled surfaces with a medium-grit sanding sponge. When you're done, everything should be glass-smooth. Follow the underlying structure of the cabinet or door with the brush. gloss white paint for kitchen cabinets. Where a rail (horizontal piece) butts into a stile (vertical piece), for instance, paint the rail initially, overlapping a little onto the stile.
Where a stile butts into a rail, paint the stile initially. Squeeze a thin bead of latex caulk into any open joints. Pull the suggestion as you go, then smooth the caulk with a moist finger. Fill any little damages, scratches, or dings with vinyl spackle, smoothed flat with a putty knife.
Spot-prime the spackle, and any spots where the brushed-on guide is "burned through," with a spray can of fast-drying oil-based primer - how much does it cost to have someone paint cabinets. Wait an hour, then sand the primer lightly with 280-grit paper. Vacuum all surface areas, and wipe with a tack fabric. The hole in a caulk tube's suggestion should be no larger than the pointer of a sharp pencil.